2021

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2021 vai ser um ano melhor do que 2020? Sim, se usarmos como ponto de perspectiva as medidas do medo e da esperança. Desejamos um 2021 com menos imprevisibilidade e esperamos um ano em que nos seja possível, a todos, fazer (e cumprir) planos, metas e utopias, sem sermos surpreendidos pelo desconhecido que nos obriga a respostas impulsivas e irreflectidas. Dependendo do lugar de conforto em que cada um de nós se encontra, podemos prosseguir com a confiança reforçada: (e nem que seja por uma infeliz comparação) 2021 será um ano melhor.

Mas no consumo tudo se precipitou. A lenta e gradual direcção de passagem do físico ao online, foi substituída por uma urgente adaptação utilitarista e confortável: hoje, quem pensa em comprar, pensa em comprar online. O movimento físico de loja-em-loja como método de escolha foi trocado pelo scroll infinito na comodidade do sofá. Para quê deslocar-me se posso fazer chegar tudo até mim?

A reflexão que os espaços físicos se obrigaram a fazer em 2020 será posta em prática em 2021. Qual é o papel de uma loja (física) na cidade? Para 2021, as lojas poderão transformar-se em showrooms, espaços de exposição e evento (quando regressarem). Para 2021, os lojistas poderão converter-se em influenciadores digitais e agentes de comunicação. Para 2021, as marcas poderão autonomizar-se, perder o referente e direccionarem-se individualmente a cada cliente. Ou não, pois não só nenhum destes processos é simples ou económico, como há poucas garantias que possam resultar.

2021 traz também a certeza que o capitalismo de mercado, fundador da economia moderna, tem na digitalização o seu processo de declínio. É novamente o tempo dos monopólios e das oligarquias. Em 2021, ser independente e local, não é só um statement de comunicação, mas um lugar de trincheira numa luta impossível, mas fundamental.

Para 2021, na SCAR-ID, o lema será a resistência. Queremos acompanhar a transformação (somos loja online, somos showroom, somos marca, somos influenciadores digitais), mas queremos sobretudo dedicar-nos a afirmar o papel do espaço físico enquanto elemento fundador da cidade. A cidade precisa tanto do comércio como da praça e do monumento. Só com o comércio podemos ter cidades vivas, sedutoras e colectivas. É o nosso papel para 2021 conservar esta missão urbana, ao mesmo tempo que queremos continuar a apresentar os produtos mais interessantes aos nossos clientes.

Contamos consigo. Obrigado por estar sempre aí.

Feliz 2021.         

7 anos

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I

7 anos. Treze de dezembro de dois mil e treze. Chegámos atrasados (havia fila à porta, quem diria?). Abrimos com loja online, mas militantemente físicos.  Há 7 anos não era um risco um projecto sobre texturas. Há 7 anos havia paixão. Hoje (também) há resistência.

II

No dia seguinte vendemos uns atacadores. Só. Cinco euros. Quem é que há 7 anos vendia atacadores ao lado de mobiliário, roupa, cerâmica? Nisso talvez tenhamos sido pioneiros. Pelo menos por cá. Ainda temos alguns atacadores. Não os vendemos todos. Não sabíamos quando se dizia obrigado. Não sabíamos quando a nossa narrativa apaixonada pelo produto estava a ser maçadora ao cliente. Hoje também não (a máscara não o deixa compreender).

III

Há 7 anos tínhamos a troika. Hoje temos a peste. Nada de novo então. Novas crises (do ciclo capitalista que nos resignámos a pertencer). Mas hoje não abriríamos um espaço na cidade – num mundo sem toque e sem cheiro, onde as conversas não têm expressão e o consumo é preguiçoso: quem é que falou em consumo?

IV

Deveríamos ter já assimilado na plenitude o online como nova forma e aceitar o metabolismo nativo da actividade comercial enquanto disciplina? Talvez, só que não devemos. Ou pior, não nos adaptámos e não nos queremos, militantemente, adaptar. Nós aqui pelo comércio – tradicional, local ou de rua – temos preferido sempre encarnar um último sopro de resistência”.

V

Este natal desenhámos uma mesa para a nossa montra (haverá uma espécie de natal). Andamos a desenhar mesas desde dois mil e treze. Uma mesa, um convite para uma conversa. Uma ligação. Andamos a criar novas ligações (no design) desde dois mil e treze.

VI

“Caro consumidor, que cidade quer encontrar no final desta pandemia, depois de ter decidido – talvez irrefletidamente – eleger como espaço de trocas comerciais, o tapete de entrada de sua casa? Temos uma missão para si: cuide de nós agora, para quando voltar o nosso tempo, podermos continuar a cuidar da cidade”.

VII

7 anos. Treze de dezembro de dois mil e vinte. Amanhã continuamos a resistência. Mas hoje não. O hoje é para nós. Parabéns SCAR-ID.

A Mesa de Natal [ ATER by scar-id]

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scar-id-Christmas-montra-natal-ideias

A Mesa de Natal ATER by scar-id

estava preparada. Os gregos

gostavam da ideia da preparação da alma. Preparar uma mesa

para o jantar é (hoje) uma tarefa igualmente virtuosa.  O mais importante é

saber escolher

os pratos (de 23€ a 35€). Nesta mesa, a pequena tábua de mármore (72€) espera por uma entrada. Mas todo o cenário é afinal a antítese da entrada – saída – a fuga.

Sílvia, de um lado,

partiu até sem a sua Carteira (330€). André, do outro, nunca tinha deixado uma

caneta sem tampa, enquanto pensava os seus textos.

O motivo parece-nos óbvio: os copos (de 12€ a 30€) estavam vazios. Pode até,

num espaço de loucura, permitir-se alguém, sentar-se a uma mesa sem comer – pode-se apenas conversar: talvez sobre

arte contemporânea ou fotografia – as paixões da Sílvia – inclusivamente sobre a pequena

polaroide de Paris tirada por ela em dois mil e seis. Mas esta conversa particular,

quem nos diz que, talvez, não tivesse sido mesmo

subitamente interrompida por falta de líquido nas Jarras (de 57€ a 140€)?

André denunciava-se subtilmente na sua fuga. A régua (Kima, 18€) foi também

deixada para trás, tal como

a arquitectura e um par de óculos Darkside (189€). Porque deixaria Sílvia, as suas cerâmicas por estrear na noite de Natal é invariavelmente assunto de digna investigação.

Talvez: tenham saído, a convite,

à procura de vinho, poesia ou virtude? Não se sabe.

Sabe-se apenas que as almofadas (57€) ainda estão quentes e que a fruta ainda não fora aberta. Em certos círculos – íntimos até – especula-se que Sílvia e André talvez não voltem

a esta mesa.

Porque não se abandonam joias – nem de mão (Pedro Santos, de 6€ a 12€), nem de dedos (anéis 45€) – espalhadas com a mesma despreocupação com que um dourado

contamina delicadamente todo o ambiente.

Mas é só uma ideia inaugural e etérea, pois ambos conheciam bem

os ensinamentos do sábio no que toca a comida, bebida, ilusão e – principalmente –

sorte. É que

apesar de tudo fazerem – nunca os gregos nos deixam –

como se estivessem a ser observados, uma mesa quer-se: não na

montra de uma loja, mas, afinal, em

casa.

Rita Sá [ novos preços ]

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Dia 28 de Fevereiro, a SCAR-ID apresenta a nova colecção SS20 de Rita Sá.

Nesse dia, a nossa selecção AW1920 da marca, depois de um período de 30% de desconto regressa, como anunciado, aos valores originais e as peças SS19 passam indefinidamente a uma redução de 30%.

Porque é que uma colecção, que se quer assumir como Intemporal, reduz o seu preço?

Entre as mais variadas razões, com as quais habitualmente, manifestamente discordamos, encontra-se uma motivação indiscutível, que pela sua transparência em nada colide com os princípios que tentamos defender: ciclicamente, é necessário encontrar com alguma urgência um orçamento extra capaz de auxiliar o desenvolvimento de novas criações.

Uma vez completado o seu propósito artístico de financiamento de uma nova colecção, o produto não vendido não encontra outro pretexto apropriado para não regressar à sua categoria original de produto intemporal. A peça volta a estar marcada com aquilo que consideramos ser qualquer coisa como um preço-justo.

Mas por vezes os preços justos (já por si alvo de extrema subjectividade) tornam-se injustos, o que agrava toda a subjectividade reservada à questão económica.

Um preço justo de uma peça tona-se injusto sempre que a peça não é vendida, dado que nessa eventualidade, alguns dos intervenientes do ciclo não são correctamente expostos à pertença justiça da distribuição das (pequenas) mais-valias.

Nesta perspectiva, deve uma colecção de ambição intemporal, ver o seu desejado preço-justo reduzido de forma permanente para poder cumprir, ainda que por via paralela os objectivos iniciais? Pode reduzir-se de forma temporária, estabilizando-se novamente, no preço original?

A resposta mais razoável, inevitavelmente não resolve a questão: depende.

Para o caso, pareceu-nos interessante a estratégia comercial da marca Rita Sá, pelo simples facto de nos levantar questões essenciais à mensagem que diariamente comunicamos aos nossos consumidores.

THE INVISIBLE WARDROBE :: [UN]DRESS YOUR SKIN

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You all know we love to write concepts and manifestos and to produce beautiful images to inspire and seduce our followers to the ´scenario´ we are creating here at scar-id.
But sometimes, we just need to a good curatorial work, clear all the store for one brand and let it happen.
Friday 24th November, scar-id After Hours, Made in Youthland:

THE INVISIBLE WARDROBE :: [UN]DRESS YOUR SKIN

“On the 24th November, Black Friday takes place worldwide and like an abusive relationship with the real world, it has become synonymous with consumerism – wasteful, debt-fuelled and ultimately unsatisfying in the long-term. Yet, inescapably, we are part of the material world and this phenomenon. Being part of the cosmetic and lifestyle industry, we are well aware of an over-consumption and an uncontrolled and emotional purchasing behaviour. So, how, then, can we develop a healthy connection to material things?

This Friday, we would like to redesign the conversation. In a day that celebrates excess, we invite you to undress from it and go back to the essentials – exploring the relationship with ourselves and ultimately, our skin.

Skin has the power to protect our bodies, to [re]connect us with the material and immaterial world, to allow us to be able to feel and by stripping down our behaviours and thoughts back to the essential of the human body, we believe we can rethink and rebuild our relationship with materialism in a more meaningful way. As advocates that every non-human body shares with every human body a cognitive and transformational nature, we trust that it possible to dress our skin, and ourselves, with a more deeply pleasurable and respectful relationship with the world of ‘things’.

We invite you to meet us this Friday and what better place to spend the evening but, Scar-id store in Porto? From 18h00, Sixteen skincare wearables that we like to call The Invisible Wardrobe, will be on display to be experienced surrounded by an [un]dressed minimalist environment, in the company of the perfect pairing: Wine by Quinta de Lubazim and chocolate truffles.”

Media: Sporstwear International Magazine Interview

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RETAILER TO WATCH

“The best is that our fashion clients don’t really care about fashion.”

Interview for Sporstwear International Magazine
by Juliette Tafreschi — June 27, 2017

In 2013 Andre Ramos and Silvia Pinto Costa decided to quit their jobs in architecture and photography and face new challenges. They opened a concept store named scar-id in the heart of Porto where they show whatever they like: from Japanese inspired ceramic to urban furniture and their own brand ATER. The mix is unique and worth a visit!

What’s the story behind your store? When and why was the shop opened and how did it develop?
We opened scar-id on a Friday night, 13th December 2013. We like to see our store as our place in the city. It started with the idea of presenting our identity, our vision, our concepts, our tastes to a bigger audience, our city. scar-id is a design store, but we see it as a place where we can show whatever we like: from Japanese inspired ceramic to photography, fashion videos or flowers, architectural projects or parties to celebrate design.
Four years ago we were quitting our peaceful jobs in architecture and photography, to start a life that is all about discovering, enjoying the process and having the feeling of conceptual liberty.

How would you describe your assortment and what makes it special?
We work with fashion and jewellery, but also with ceramics, notebooks, magazines, leather bags, homeware, skin beauty, concrete urban furniture…this mixture is what makes scar-id special. The selection we offer, from a wide range of areas, and to create a complex but coherent collection of products is where we ´differentiate´ ourselves.

Which brands and styles are your bestsellers right now?
We are very happy with our own brand, ATER by scar-id, a leather accessories brand that is performing quite well since its launch a few months ago.
Comfortable coats and sweaters from Carla Pontes and Susana Bettencourt, ceramic plants germinators from Lagrima Studio and jewellery with unusual materials like the 3D printed plastic necklaces by Wek, are our bestsellers.

Which new brands did you add to the assortment recently and how did you discover these?
We have recently added a new ceramics brand. Estúdio Hakémé is a young sculptor that is creating Japanese style ceramics who invited us to visit his atelier and we got very enthusiastic about his search and process. We re-started to work with Daniel Barros, a fashion brand we were working with when we opened the store.
We like to help a brand to grow, so we normally have new brands, some with unique pieces or very limited editions sold exclusively here at scar-id. The research process is very interesting.

Where do you order your products (showrooms or trade shows – which ones)?
Since we don´t work with mainstream brands, we can allow ourselves to have a direct and personal contact with the designers or the brand managers.
We can visit showrooms or trade shows, and find new things there, but the next step is always about a conversation with the persons, finding out concepts and ideas behind the brands and figuring out what can we do to establish a positive partnership, which for us is always more than about trade.

Which trends & looks do you think will dominate in fall/winter 2017?
Layer over layer, mixing seasons, mixing styles. The trend is yourself and your identity. People should use whatever they feel like, but their look must reflect themselves, their own personality, their own lifestyle and not someone else´s style.

How often do you redecorate the store, how important is the interior?
Our concept for the store´s interior architecture was to create a void white space with some black displays, taking advantage of the wide windows and adding a lot of ice white light.
In a weekly or even daily rhythm we change product places, sell a few, add new ones. Since we work with several different areas, one day we could talk about fashion and jewellery, another day we are in an ´offline´ mood and we highlight magazines and notebooks. Last week it was about ceramics.
So we are constantly “redecorating” the store, not with architectural gestures but with products.

What is special about your fashion customer?
The best is that our fashion clients don’t really care about fashion. Like we do, they care about products, and design, and ideas and, especially, about themselves.
We work for a niche audience, passionate and savvy customers that are seeking that special piece, they know they will find at scar-id store.

How do you interact with your community?
Porto´s Art District, the place where we are based, is a place for cool stores, art galleries, where a few creatives are still living. When we launch a new brand or collection in store, we always make a public presentation, gather some friends and some design enthusiasts.
scar-id is also very present on social media and we have an online shop, but we are more and more interested in being ´offline´, doing things directly for our clients, in store, in the storefronts for the city.

What have been the biggest challenges in leading the store so far?
scar-id is an independent store. Our business model is very simple. We search, select and sell. We have no investors and we´re not using community funds, we just do everything with passion.
Who works in this way has a daily challenge, which is called survival. We have to be always a step ahead, trying to figure out creative ways to develop tomorrow.

Which person – celebrity or not – would you love to welcome in the store one day?
We actually feel very pleased when someone from the neighbourhood, who never looked at our store with attention, finally discovers a product in the storefront that makes him enter for the first time.
We had quite ´famous´ architects, designers and musicians coming to scar-id anonymously.
In one of Anohni´s professional photos, she is using a piece from Susana Bettencourt that she purchased here on the day of her concert. We would like to welcome her again.

25 May: andre’s choices

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I (and Silvia) see scar-id as a space for urban culture, an idea. A lifestyle idea, giving an answer to the way we live.

scar-id it is not its products, is ideas, concepts, design, image, experimentation, to dare, to interpret, to comment and to create.

It´s not just the way we dress and the objects we have in our homes. It´s all a concept of identity, of life.

To achieve a coherent package.

We work with clothes, jewellery, paper and ceramics in store. But we work with much more: with houses, with art, with photography, with space, we would like to work with music and films, someday with food and perhaps with means of transportation.

Experiences.

And what is the role of products in today´s ´online´ world of (shared) economy of experiences?

What does a piece of clothing (there is not fashion, but design or style) means today?

What, in today´s world of low salaries and big needs for incessant changing, really deserves and justifies spending our money?

And, do we still have time to look at a physical object? And figuring out things like design, quality, material, idea, culture?

We sold Inês Marques Printed Black Top from SS16 on the day of her FW16´17 fashion show. She was dressing the girls with her second collection and the first one had entered in store a few hours later, when some international traveller fell in love for this piece. I haven’t get time to know the product but it represents quite well what is our work about.

WEK´s work is about to match coloured plastic wires used on the vineyards and 3d Printed parts to close, and get an amazing bold piece of jewellery that challenges the need for noble raw materials to create statement pieces. Silvia uses a 71 Bold Necklace every day.

Stiches Dress is a black plain piece in cotton and linen, with a textured surface that divides the mat and the transparent. Is an amazing piece that can be used as a dress or a coat. In each designer and each collection, despite all the general questions about quality, I´m always trying to find a relation to my own point of view and I get very pleased when I find it, like I did with Amorphous.

IDxH Black Code 1.0  from HUSK is all I can expect from a notebook: a lot of white pages, a textured black leather cover and was made with time and care: handmade.If we are searching for concepts in clothing we are always ending on Alexandra Moura. Her Black Bomber with Laces represents me some king of deconstructed femininity for wear on the street. It´s not fashion or glamour, it´s style and identity.

I really hope nobody buys the Large Handmade Bowl, Grey and Ocher. I will take it home and put it close to the other two Lagrima products we have.

I´m always trying to find minimal, pure, essential contemporary jewellery brands. Modular Bracelet 31 by Ana Pina is a main exemplar of what a simples and clean design gesture could make.

Sunday after lunch, we find a good place, with nice chairs and quiet music, we ordered coffee and we start to read our regular pile of magazines. Discovering ideas, architecture, fashion, art, interiors, design and cities, is my daily routine. In Sundays I do the same but with paper magazines such as The Aprés Garde that I have the pleasure to sell in store. It´s our ´international guest´ of the moment.

ID Backpack is part of my daily uniform. I always use plain black essential clothes with almost no details. All my clothes are equal. Black pants, black shirts, some black sweaters, black boots and black sneakers, a winter heavy black coat with a hoodie for the rain, a few street black bombers and a couple of blazers for more institutional moments. So, when I needed something to carry thing we designed a plain, undetailed, black leather backpack.

Editorial: State of Mind for Elléments Magazine

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We like to work with Tânia Dioespirro.
She is always involved with great productions and the images are amazing, like these ones for Elléments Magazine.
These time Tânia used Pedro Pedro, Susana Bettencourt, Wek, Lia Gonçalves, Andrez and Eduardo Amorim.

Photography – Dulce Daniel

Styling – Tânia Dioespirro

Styling Assistant – Luisa Quintela

Makeup – Helena Almeida

Hair – Ksenia Gryninnyk

Model – Tânia (Best Models)

scar-id x Escola de Moda do Porto

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Each year, we have to pleasure to collaborate with Escola de Moda do Porto, one of the best fashion school on the city and help one of its students.

In 2014, we had Yannick Barros doing an internship in our store, helping us with our daily routines.

In 2015, we had Mariana Virgilio creating an amazing storefront for us, in Gold and Silver, alongside with her brilliant conceptual Film featuring some products from our store.

This year was the time for Joana Silva. She redefined our logo, created a new identity for our shopping bags and price tags, but we absolutely loved her Photoshoot. With the versatile model Inês Junqueira, Joana was able to transmit scar-id store´ identity picking up a selection of neutral black and white (and blue) products where she just added black ink and a plain grey scenario.

This work was really about our identity. To feature a careful selection of products and talk about them facing a neutral scenario. Is like this in our store, in our website and surely was like this in Joana´s Photoshoot. Thank you Joana Silva. We wish you luck for your future, because you have plenty of talent.

Art Direction: Joana Silva

Photography: Daniel Fernandes

Model: Inês Junqueira

MUA: Sara Ferreira

Event – Valentine’s Day 2016

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“It should be passion, right? But Love has just four letters,it´s easier to build the word. Yeah, but we use passion in the store, not love, love is calm e rational, this is more bold and spontaneous, we search for, we like it, we understand it and someone should take it home because of passion, not love! But they could love it! Maybe they can, but can you love a garment or a necklace? You can love the person who gave you a ring, not the ring itself. You can be passionate about a notebook and a bag, and you can love me. I don´t think so, I love a marble board and a ceramic bowl. But I can´t love my shoe lace, I can be just passionate for a while, a new item. I love items forever, you know. I will love this black denim coat forever, and I´m no more passionate about him, and I´m passionate about this blue wool collar right know, will I love it one day? Who knows.But you know what, I have passion for this store, for what we sell, how we communicate it, this white space that can be whatever we want. I love my job, finding daily a new way to solve a new problem, it´s great isn´t it? To be passionate about an idea, a concept. To be in love with changing the world?Yeah, but you know, in the end of the day it´s all about you,and I love you.”

scar-id